January 19 At least the clouds had gone away but the wind from the north came right down both shores of Key Largo at about 20 knots with much stronger gusts. So we started out along the Atlantic shore huddling to the mangrove shoreline the best we could. There were some quiet places but a few mile long hauls straight into the wind. As we approached the entrance to the channel to Largo Sound we tried to stay near the shore and had to cut across a shallow flat with lots of birds. One can tell how deep it is by the type of birds that stand there. A heron can stand in about 18" of water but a cormorant only about 3" or 4", Pelicans maybe 6". A bird that is not bobbing up and down with the waves is standing or sitting on the bottom! We have run aground many times and been able to back up and get free to try a different route. Not so this time. We had already tried different routes and now we were really stuck. I tried putting my foot on the bottom to push us and sunk in up to my knee in muck mixed with all manner of unknown critters. I removed it and rinsed it off quickly! We have seen many species of jellyfish, some of which can cause a stinging rash.

One of the great things about no deadlines to meet on this trip has been that getting stuck on a mudflat was totally stress-free. This forced rest was actually a welcome break after trying to beat the wind. It turned into a great opportunity to use the free long distance service provided by cell phones on weekends. The two and a half hours went by quickly as we talked to many of our children and Heather’s brother who told us of two large gifts received by Damien House. Finally at about 4:00 p.m. we floated enough to move and get into deeper water. We were a mile from the entrance to the harbor and I had to race to keep ahead of a large tour boat returning from a dive tour at Pennekamp reef. It followed me most of the way into Largo sound, a fairly large body of water in the middle of the island with channels out in four directions. Hoping to find a campsite at Pennekamp state park, we were disappointed when a warden, with an attitude like the last state park warden I had encountered, said that they were full and there was no place for us to stay there. He had no suggestions and when I asked if he knew if there was a homeless shelter his response was to tell me that there was a Marriott and Howard Johnson. I doubt he read any message in my question. As we rowed by the campground I could see lots of open spaces near the shore that he could have let us use. We saw no other options on the shores of Largo sound and the sun had just sunk below the mangroves. I began to ponder what else I might have prepared before the trip to make it easier to beg for lodging when emergencies happen. I could not think of any. We would find something soon.

We should have put our bow and stern lights in place when stuck on the mud flat but now it was too late. We entered the Adams channel which cuts across to Blackwater Sound on the Gulf side of Key Largo and found a very strong current coming our direction. Adams channel is about ½ mile long but the current made it feel like a full mile. In a sculling race you row hard to save your pride. Racing against an oncoming current with a powerboat gaining on you from behind whose helmsman may or may not notice you in the waning light caused me to put on a sprint for much more dire reasons. I won! Other boats had their lights on by the time we emerged at the other end. As we turned to the right at the end I could see the sign and lights for the Marriott Key Largo Resort. A small float near the water sports area caught my eye as it is unusual to find one low enough to row up to. I tied up and left poor Heather to get even more chilled by the north wind while I went to see what I could negotiate. Fortunately no where we have tried to stay has been completely filled up except for the state parks. The front desk clerk, well trained, showed me a rate schedule and the least expensive room they had was $259.00.

I winced and mentioned that we were rowing to raise money for a charity. I was trying to keep our contribution under $100.00 day. Two seconds passed before I had been offered the same room for $100.00 less. I was too exhausted to do anything but thank profusely and ask where we might tie up the boat. A very nice boy was summoned and asked to go with me to help. I collected the bags we would need from the boat, gave Heather the key to go and get warm and I rowed the boat around the bend and into their boat basin where I found an empty spot surrounded by four foot walls of concrete with cleats every so often around the rim. Heather returned after leaving the bags and tipping the boy to find me sitting in this bull pen wondering how to get out of the boat. I found a place where my starboard rigger would go under the rim of the pier if the oar was removed. So I shipped the oars after throwing the bow line to Heather, pulled in close with my rigger under the edge, stood up in the boat and gave a jump and twist which placed me seated on the edge of the concrete. Wow, was I pleased with that! We then tied the boat diagonally across the bull pen and checked to see that the lines would accommodate the changes in the tide while still keeping it from bumping. We went to the very comfortable room and cleaned up before going to find dinner. It seemed like a long time since I had eaten Damien wraps and gorp on the mudflats. My feelings of frustration with Marriott International for not specifying TOTO toilets had faded for now! I enjoyed the kind of sleep I had not had since the last race I had won!